My thoughts on breadboards
Why breadboards?
I made a video where I talk about the reasons I like using breadboards, why it's important to get the right breadboards, and other issues to be aware of. I also have a video where I discuss some tips and tricks that I use to make tidy breadboard projects:
What breadboard do you recommend?
Currently, the best quality I've found is either the BB830 by BusBoard Prototype Systems, or the similar high-quality breadboards I've commissioned and sell myself and in my kits. If anything changes, I'll update my recommendation here.
You can buy them directly from me (though if you're outside the US, this may not be the best option):
You can also get them on Amazon and elsewhere, but be careful that you're not getting a fake. Many resellers don't realize there's a difference and will send you a lower-quality product, not even realizing they're doing anything wrong. If you're paying less than ~$8 USD each, you're probably not getting the right thing.
Why does quality matter?
The video above covers this in a little more detail, but the biggest difference is the quality of the internal contacts in the breadboard. Below, I've removed the contacts from three different breadboards. The one on the left was ~$2; the one in the middle was around $5; and the one on the right is closer to ~$9.
The higher-quality breadboards seem to use a different metal alloy that is more springy. That means the contacts grip wires well and snap closed, keeping it shape when the wire is removed.
What tools do you use?
As described in the breadboarding tips video above, here are the tools I currently use:
- Simple wire stripper that works for 22AWG wire. This one from Ideal is what I currently use. I also sometimes use this fancy Knipex automatic stripper. But keep in mind, as I discuss in my breadboarding tips video, this doesn't work for shorter wires.
- Wire cutters, preferably small ones. I currently use these Lindstrom cutters. I also recommend a lower-cost option from Hakko.
- Small needle-nose pliers; I prefer smooth-jaw needle-nose pliers. Again, I currently use these from Lindstrom. And again, Hakko has a great lower-cost option.
The fine print
If you have questions about an order, payment, or shipping, please contact support@eater.net and include your order number. For technical help assembling or troubleshooting the kits, please post a question at reddit.com/r/beneater since it's difficult for me to answer these individually.
In addition to my own kits, some links on this page are to products sold by Amazon. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Non-US customers: Note that all kits ship from California. I'm willing to ship a box anywhere you want, but the buyer—that's you—is responsible for any applicable import duties and local taxes. In some cases, the carrier (FedEx or UPS) may charge a fee to collect these taxes from you. Please verify with your customs and taxing authorities before making a purchase to understand what else you may be required to pay.
Finally, the 5-volt power supply included in clock and VGA kits has a North American style plug. It will work worldwide because it supports 100-240 volts, but if your country uses a different type of electrical outlet, you will need to provide a plug adapter (e.g., something like this).